Petzl reverso 4 this multipurpose belayrappel device is ultralight 59 g, 25 % lighter than the reverso 3 and intuitive to use. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all petzl devices of this kind verso, reverso and unireverso. Featuring auto belays, tubular, and assistedbraking. Reverso, warning, legends read online or download pdf petzl reverso 3 user manual. Most of my comments on the reverso apply to the reversino as well, except that the reversino does not have instructions stamped on it, while the reverso. If you have any questions or would like to see extra pictures please message me. The reverso is a belay device for the leader or second, for use with double dynamic ropes.
Nov 02, 20 the user manual for the petzl reverso says not to use it in autolocking mode in a situation where the carabiner the rope runs around cannot move freely. What is the strength of an atc belay device when used in a. The r ock climbing harness you see is the one you will receive. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. Vshaped friction channels with asymmetrical lateral grooves adapt the friction to the type of rope for better control arc technology.
This makes sense to me because the device needs to be able to rotate freely to ensure that the load strand clamps down on the brake strand, independent of the direction of loading. The pivoting loop for lowering in guide mode makes this a nice option over the reverso, but that is a small plus with a fairly large minus of not being autoblocking. Belay device theory, testing and practice by jim titt 30 jan 2009. Tech tips by product, reverso the activities depicted are inherently dangerous.
For years the petzl reverso 4 and black diamond atc guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among american multipitch climbers. After making the us national team at sport and petzl. The reverso is too large and has too many limitations for me to choose it. This belayrappel device is lightweight and easy to use. Jammed devices can be released by passing a cord through the cord eye and pulling on the cord. Page 1 we invite you to consult the operating instructions and we. The multipurpose, lightweight reverso is a belayrappel device designed for belaying and rappelling. Designed specifically for indoor and crag climbing, it can be used with all dynamic single ropes in the 8. Be sure to read the manufacturers instructions carefully.
Modern technology has given us many belay devices, but the atc if you only have your hand on the rope above the belay device. The uiaace does not necessitate a strength requirement for manual. Historically, i have enjoyed the use of my petzl reverso in guide mode belaying directly off the anchors master. With pure, geometric lines, arabic numerals, and emblematic gadroons framing the face, the stainless steel reverso classic large small second watch is the embodiment of an iconic, instantly. Reverso, cahier, warning read online or download pdf petzl reverso 4 user manual. With its innovative and compact design, the rig offers a simple, efficient alternative to traditional descenders. View and download petzl nao plus user manual online. Nov 14, 20 the petzl reverso 4 is an ultralight multipurpose belay and abseil device with a hands free auto locking guide mode. I have used the reverso and found it took a lot of effort with my rope. Apr 28, 2016 to bring on multipitch trad and alpine climbs. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. The rig selfbraking descender allows the user to easily position himself by using the handle to lock the device in place on the rope. Choose from one of the product categories to easily find the petzl manual youre looking for.
The lightweight reverso is a multifunctional belayrappel device designed for. I wont say that it is dangerous, but the user needs to be aware of its limitations to use it safely. Its easy to understand why, theyre both afforable, smooth, and reliable. I love my reverso 3 and use it in guide mode quite a lot. Positioning restraint, ascent access, dismantling, specific instructions for. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the reverso because its lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. View and download petzl vertex vent instructions for use manual online.
What is the strength of an atc belay device when used in a guide modemulti pitch setup. Reverso mode provides assistedbraking while belaying one or two. Petzl vertex vent instructions for use manual pdf download. Reverso is versatile belay device made by french company petzl.
Climbing technology click up plus an innovative manual. How can i get the instructions for my lamp or battery. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called reverso 1. The stainless steel wear plate improves durability by reinforcing the rope friction zone. With its unique locking system, the asap is a reference product in fall protection. In addition it is important that the user learns how to lower a second its a relatively straightforward technique but needs.
Its excellent for multipitch rock and ice, and serviceable at the crag or gym. Petzl reverso 4 urban rock view and download jaegerlecoultre reverso grande gmt user manual online. The spirit screwlock is based on the spirit carabiner and uses petzls manual. I was wondering if the bd atc guide is smoother and easier in this configuration then the reverso. Two steel petzl carabiners, one spreader bar two climbing helmets one white pmi helmet and one white petzl helmet, the petzl helmet has a very nice rotating led head lamp with a red led and blue led for night time, also two new pads for the bands on the helmet. The reverso 3 is no longer produced by petzl and it is not available to buy from major online retailers. Reverso mode allows independent and simultaneous belaying of one or two seconding climbers. Our most versatile belayrappel device, the black diamond atcguide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. This multipurpose belay device is lightweight and easy to use. In normal use, the device moves freely along the rope without any manual intervention and accompanies the user in. May 5, 2014 buying crappy gear is a bigger problem than deciding which gear to take on a trip.
Im looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone. I wont show this figure because i have differing opinions. The verso is tied for the most affordable device you can buy, and is a solid recommendation for people new to climbing. The figure at the bottom of this page shows petzl s recommendations.
Ultimately, the best way to use a belay device is according to the manufacturers specifications. Vertex vent motorcycle accessories pdf manual download. We also enlarged the autoblock release hole to accept a small. Dmm locking carabiner and petzl reverso belay device. Before use, familiarize yourself with how your rope works with the reverso to get an idea of its braking capabilities. This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all petzl devices of this kind verso, reversino and unireverso. One was lighter, the other allowed me a free hand to snack and add extra layers while my partner cleaned the pitch. All users must be trained and competent in the use of the equipment for these activities.
Belaying with the reverso the reverso is a belayrappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tubetype belay devices. You can still check out all the specs and claim your ownership. How to choose a belay device for rock climbing outdoorgearlab. Amounts shown in italicized text are for items listed in currency other than canadian dollars and are approximate conversions to canadian dollars based upon bloombergs conversion rates. Later was added reverso 2, which is reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different reverso 3 and after that lightweight reverso 4. Like most belayers, the reverso can be used for rappelling. It is important, however, to remember that it also works as a normal device and, depending on the layout of your stance, it might be harder to use in guide mode. Stainless steel men watch manualwinding reverso classic. The user manual for the petzl reverso says not to use it in autolocking mode in a situation. Jammed devices can be released by passing a cord through the cord eye and. The reverso 4 is no longer produced by petzl and it is not available to. Vshaped friction channels, with asymmetrical side grooves, adapt the rope friction for better control braking adapted to half, twin and single dynamic ropes. Ropes tend to pull through the slots on the gigi much more easily than a petzl reverso or black diamond atc guidebut like most techniques and tools there are compromises for the easier pullingso read on.
Smart alpine black diamond atc xp petzl reverso atc guide petzl verso 9 9. While many people throw away the user manual that comes with all pieces of climbing equipment, when you. The standard tubestyle devices, like the black diamond atc models and the petzl verso and reverso are what scored the lowest compared to the rest of the field. The black diamond atcxp belay device offers the same great hold and stopping power as the original version, only its now 30% lighter. The kong gigia guides best friend vetta mountain guides. Trimmed of all excess, the remarkably lightweight wild country pro guide lite belay device features deep, ribbed grooves that handle a wide range of ropeseven 7. For example it has various friction settings for belay and rappel. The more precies your question is, the higher the chances of quickly receiving an answer from another user. Why i stopped using petzl headlamps paul kirtleys blog. Petzl reverso 2019 ultralight multipurpose belayrappel device.
In the past, when lowering my second some significant amount, ive used a biner tip into the little nub on a reverso and cranked it open to feed rope and lower her down. View the petzl tikka xp manual for free or ask your question to other petzl tikka xp owners. Its comfort and ease of use make it suitable for a wide range of users for climbing, mountaineering or via ferrata. Green berets ultralight bug out bag with gear recommendations duration. I have been a petzl user for over thiry years and still have a myo that seems to work ok for me. By filling in the form below, your question will appear below the manual of the petzl actik. Page 6 petzl anbefaler, at udstyret inspiceres mindst en gang om aret.
How to belay the leader with a reverso belaying techniques. With the right belay device, a small, weak climber can easily arrest the fall of a much heavier partner. To get the instructions for your headlamp, or battery, click on. The lightweight reverso is a multifunctional belayrappel device designed for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. Os by petzl will then launch your internet browser and display the product web page where you will find the instructions for use for your product. The user can clip the unit to an anchor sling with a carabiner passed through the carabiner hole, belaying in an autostop mode.
Apr 24, 2019 the lower autoblock friction of the atc guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the petzl reverso 4. Petzl recommends using a petzl shunt as a rappel safety. Belaying my second in guide mode directly off master point. A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying. Hand motions are the same as with classic belay systems. Brooke raboutou again and its day 2 of my takeover on petzls facebook.
Find great deals on ebay for petzl and petzl headlamp. The small seconds beats at its heart, breathing soul into the watch. Please make sure that you describe your difficulty with the petzl actik as precisely as you can. Hello, i want to by a new belay device that can be used in the guide autoblock configuration. It wasnt exactly smooth or effortless due to the friction. Easy to grasp, this descender is intuitive and convenient to use. The avao bod croll fast harness has a specific construction that allows the user to hang from the dorsal attachment point for a longer time in case of a fall. This version of the reverso 3 is officially retired.
Im in the same spot as you, recently i friend of mine bought a bd harness from mountain gear as a reward for helping him he gave me the included atc which i sold and i am thinking of getting a newer belay device use a old petzl reverso 2, i was told in a climbing shop that bd guide works better in high friction mode with thinner ropes than. Its the lightest model to feature an autoblock mode for multipitch climbing, and can also be used for abseiling. Selfbraking descender with antipanic function for work at height and rope access work professional sport. With pure, geometric lines, arabic numerals, and emblematic gadroons framing the face, the stainless steel reverso classic large small second watch is the embodiment of an iconic, instantly recognizable model. Belaying directly off the anchor on slabby terrain. A double rope grigri or cinch would be cool thoughnot always, according to the instruction manual. Petzl raadt u aan om dit for at bevare produktets sporbarhed ma etiketter og m.
Every challenge course, rope course, climbing gym or aerial adventure park needs a trusty belay device that will meet your belaying and rappelling needs. A reverso is a belay device developed and patented by petzl, used for example in rockclimbing and other activities which involves ropework. Reverso mode provides assistedbraking while belaying one or two seconding climbers from the top of a pitch. The petzl reverso 4 is an ultralight multipurpose belay and abseil device with a hands free auto. Double rope autolocking belay device mountain project. It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with. Compact and lightweight, the device allows the user to. Or check out petzls instruction manual pdf for correct usage and limitations. Please post what youve discovered here for others to find.
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